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Lyon: Day Five: Sept. 6.

This day, Friday, began with Starbucks, of course, and I took my grande Cafe Americano back to my hotel room to drink while creating my post about what I did on Thursday. The text was fairly long, but I only had a few photos, so I was finished and out the door by 10:30 a.m. I headed for the Saone River so that I could walk through the farmers market again. Now that I have some familiarity with the market, with Lyon, even with hearing the language (still not speaking it so much), I found myself wanting to buy things – mostly all the delicious fruits, and also the cheeses and breads. Since I have no cooking facilities, I don’t pay much attention to the meats or fish, and only longed for the veggies that can be eaten raw. Hey, I forgot to mention last time, they also sell mattresses at this market! Well, I bought nothing. I had promised myself that I would go out for a big lunch today to a nice restaurant, rather than grabbing quiches and sandwiches to go. So I simply enjoyed the visual treat of the market.

Last Monday I had read about a restaurant on rue du Palais Grillet called Palegrie and tried to go there for dinner, but they were completely booked. My plan was to go there for lunch today, so, from the outdoor market, I headed over to that neighborhood, taking my time and going in and out of places that appealed to me. I also had gardening shoes in mind. I went into one shoe store to take a look and the woman who waited on me not only spoke English but loves the US, having been there 3 times and to more major cities than I have been in. We had a fun chat and I liked her, so I bought a pair of 15 euro sneakers – I liked her more than the sneakers, but I figured they would do until I found something better and, at only 15 euro, I could just toss them out without a second thought. Take a look at the photo – and also the photo of the shoe shop.

While wandering from shoe shop to restaurant, I encountered the Lyon Opera House and lots of interesting sculptures, fountains, and pavement. I had some fun with composition, feet, circles, triangles, letter forms and other “found” art. Hope you enjoy them and, perhaps, find some inspiration.

Finally, by lunch time, I reached Palegrie. I couldn’t get in, they were all booked up for lunch! I asked about dinner, and they are booked up for dinner tonight, too! Boy oh boy, have I ever got good instincts about restaurants! Next time I am in Lyon I will make a reservation for this place. Now, where to go for lunch? I had also read about two restaurants on rue Merciere, a pedestrian street that is one restaurant after another (like the street I was on with Madeleine last night): # 52, Le Layon and #55, Le Muranie. I tried to fix those two names in my mind so that I wouldn’t need to pull out a guide book or a map and look like a tourist (as if I was fooling anybody!) and off I went to rue Merciere. I saw what I thought was Le Muranie and asked for a table outside. The place was very busy and she sat me at a table squished between two men, each eating alone (and a woman eating alone at one end). All four tables were placed one inch apart. The waitress had to pull my table entirely out to let me in, then push it back, trapping me completely after I had sat down. It felt very strange at first, but it didn’t take long before I relaxed and got used to it. I ordered a simple salad of greens, fish with some sort of vegetable terrine, and some good bread came with it. I enjoyed a glass of Macon with it and finished the meal off with an espresso and 4 tiny sweets, a brownie, a fruit tart, and two cakes that I didn’t recognize – just a one inch square of each. Everything was good – take a look at the photos. Service is always slow at the restaurants here – at least according to American standards, so I had to allow myself to consider it an experience in itself, rather than quick nourishment between experiences as I usually consider my meals. The people watching couldn’t be beat and I had a wonderful time. Oh, and I later discovered that I wasn’t at the restaurant I thought I was at – I was at Le Merciere, #56. No matter, it was good.

I took my time wandering around while walking back to the hotel and went to my room and rested by working on this blog post. At 4:30 I headed out again. A day or two ago when I visited the silk painting workshop, the young art student I talked with had given me a postcard for an art exhibit by someone who had used their printing facility for some of the work. I decided to find the gallery and was hoping I would also find other galleries around it. I had searched all over Lyon and had so far only found the very commercial, slick kind of galleries. Well, I am so excited – I found the gallery street!! It is rue Burdeau, which is all the way at the top of rue Romarin (the street the silk workshop is on), north of place des Terreaux and the Musee des Beaux-Arts. I went into several galleries and talked with people – most people around here speak at least some English, and often more than they initially claim they can (I think their standard for “good” English is way too high). The galleries are preparing exhibits today because tomorrow is a vernissage (opening reception) for the entire street. Sadly, I will be leaving on a 1:45 train for Bormes les Mimosas and I will miss it. But I took a lot of photos and will post a few of them below. I also discovered more interesting streets in this neighborhood and will include a couple of shots of those, too.

On the way back to the hotel, I had a very small sandwich and one little scoop of ice cream, so I am all set for the night. It’s about 7:30 now and I will finish this blog post and then start packing my bags again – wish I could just beam my stuff from place to place. That is the one part about traveling that I don’t like – hauling my luggage around. And it is growing, even thought I’m trying not to let that happen. It’s been a great stay here in Lyon and I would love to come back again sometime. It feels like a very livable city. Of course, my French would need just a tiny bit of improvement.

The next time I write I will be in Bormes les Mimosas, and I might miss a day or two, so don’t worry about me. And keep sending comments!!!

Mattresses being sold at the outdoor market. Is this done in the States? Probably not in North Adams.

Mattresses being sold at the outdoor market. Is this done in the States? Probably not in North Adams.

I was craving that fruit!

I was craving that fruit!

All sorts of things available at this outdoor market.

All sorts of things available at this outdoor market.

Sneakers Sans Pieds. (I think that means sneakers without feet. I don't know if there is a French word for sneakers; the Brits call them trainers.)

Sneakers Sans Pieds. (I think that means sneakers without feet. I don’t know if there is a French word for sneakers; the Brits call them trainers.)

The shoe store.

The shoe store.

The Opera House in Lyon.

The Opera House in Lyon.

The Opera House Terrace where you can eat, drink, and enjoy jazz performances. I was missing Carl already, but now I really wish he was here and that we had a few more days in Lyon.

The Opera House Terrace where you can eat, drink, and enjoy jazz performances. I was missing Carl already, but now I really wish he was here and that we had a few more days in Lyon.

Sculpture/Fountain near the Lyon Opera House.

Sculpture/Fountain near the Lyon Opera House.

Another sculpture near the Lyon Opera House. Note the circles in this and the previous sculpture - maybe elsewhere, too?

Another sculpture near the Lyon Opera House. Note the circles in this and the previous sculpture – maybe elsewhere, too?

Another statue/sculpture near the Lyon Opera House. If you have wings, do you need roller skates?

Another statue/sculpture near the Lyon Opera House. If you have wings, do you need roller skates?

I'd say this foot deserves a place in our Infamous Hall of Feet.

I’d say this foot deserves a place in our Infamous Hall of Feet.

Composition: Feet & Triangles: One

Composition: Feet & Triangles: One

Composition: Feet & Triangles: Two

Composition: Feet & Triangles: Two

Composition: Feet & Triangles: Three

Composition: Feet & Triangles: Three

Composition: Foot, Triangles, Diamond, & Dog

Composition: Foot, Triangles, Diamond, & Dog

Shadow Puppet Cracks Up. (yup...groan!)

Shadow Puppet Cracks Up. (yup…groan!)

Composition: Red Calligraphy

Composition: Red Calligraphy

Composition: Red Graffiti and Green Leaf

Composition: Red Graffiti and Green Leaf

Composition: Broken Letters. Do you know what it says? Interesting how the mind fills in the missing pieces. This was taken in Vieux Lyon a couple of days ago.

Composition: Broken Letters. Do you know what it says? Interesting how the mind fills in the missing pieces. This was taken in Vieux Lyon a couple of days ago.

Graffiti: rue du Palais Grillet.

Graffiti: rue du Palais Grillet.

Hey, Justin, this one's for you. With love, from mom.

Hey, Justin, this one’s for you. With love, from mom.

Hmmm...how about a transfer of this in my work??

Hmmm…how about a transfer of this in my work??

Le Merciere, where I had lunch. See the guy in the lower left in the black shirt? I was squeezed into that row with three other people, all of us facing the same way. Took some getting used to, but it was fine.

Le Merciere, where I had lunch. See the guy in the lower left in the black shirt? I was squeezed into that row with three other people, all of us facing the same way. Took some getting used to, but it was fine.

Rue Merciere - just one restaurant after another on a pedestrian only street.

Rue Merciere – just one restaurant after another on a pedestrian only street.

The view from my table. Shortly after I took this photo ALL the tables filled up and the place was packed!!

The view from my table. Shortly after I took this photo ALL the tables filled up and the place was packed!!

My Friday Lunch at Le Merciere.

My Friday Lunch at Le Merciere.

My dessert and coffee.

My dessert and coffee.

Rue Burdeau, the gallery street.

Rue Burdeau, the gallery street.

Another shot of rue Burdeau. That red car really helps this whole image, doesn't it?

Another shot of rue Burdeau. That red car really helps this whole image, doesn’t it?

Gallerie Sans titre no 42.

Gallerie Sans titre no 42.

Work by Benoit Coulpier at Galerie Sans titre no 42.

Work by Benoit Coulpier at Galerie Sans titre no 42.

I liked the interior of Galerie Sans titre no 42.

I liked the interior of Galerie Sans titre no 42.

Rolland Pallade spoke English, but his wife Anne-Marie did not. Both were lovely people, everyone I met was welcoming and friendly - even after I told them I was an artist and not a collector.

Rolland Pallade spoke English, but his wife Anne-Marie did not. Both were lovely people, everyone I met was welcoming and friendly – even after I told them I was an artist and not a collector.

Roland was even game to have his photo taken.

Roland was even game to have his photo taken.

Paintings by Frantz Metzger, a 32 year old Lyon resident.

Paintings by Frantz Metzger, a 32 year old Lyon resident.

Entry way from the inside: Galerie-Atelier 28. The woman who owns it was not there, but her husband was. He was very friendly and talkative. He lives in Tunisia and runs a business making women's undies. He told me about some American artists, living in Paris, who showed at this gallery and he showed me photos on his iPhone. I couldn't believe how friendly everyone was.

Entry way from the inside: Galerie-Atelier 28. The woman who owns it was not there, but her husband was. He was very friendly and talkative. He lives in Tunisia and runs a business making women’s undies. He told me about some American artists, living in Paris, who showed at this gallery and he showed me photos on his iPhone. I couldn’t believe how friendly everyone was.

To the right of the entry way. The work is by Jean-Jacques Pigeon.

To the right of the entry way. The work is by Jean-Jacques Pigeon.

A second room on the same floor.

A second room on the same floor.

A downstairs room. There are other galleries that I took photos of, but these three are enough to give you a taste of what I found on rue Burdeau.

A downstairs room. There are other galleries that I took photos of, but these three are enough to give you a taste of what I found on rue Burdeau.

Here is a close up of one of Jean-Jacques Pigeon's works - give anyone any inspiration?

Here is a close up of one of Jean-Jacques Pigeon’s works – give anyone any inspiration?

I think this is Montee de la Grande Cote, near rue Burdeau.

I think this is Montee de la Grande Cote, near rue Burdeau.

And this too, further down the street.

And this too, further down the street.

Just an interesting bit of neighborhood that I walked through coming back from rue Burdeau, not sure what street this is. My last day in Lyon was very rich and I'm very excited to have found the galleries. Next...Bormes les Mimosas.

Just an interesting bit of neighborhood that I walked through coming back from rue Burdeau, not sure what street this is. My last day in Lyon was very rich and I’m very excited to have found the galleries. Next…Bormes les Mimosas.

John Durnin
September 6th, 2013 at 7:38 pm

I enjoy your blog. I don’t know where you get the time, but keep the art work photos coming!

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Debi Pendell Artist by debipendell.com