Single post

Lyon: Day Three, Sept. 4.

Busy day and lots of photos. Began at Starbucks around 8:15 (they open at 7:30 on weekdays, 8 on Saturday (I think they are closed on Sunday, but I’m not sure – I’m leaving Saturday morning, so I haven’t thought any further than that). There was almost no one there. I am realizing that nothing much gets going around here until 11 a.m. While I was sitting at an outside table drinking my coffee and checking my email, trucks were everywhere and workers were unloading deliveries at all the stores and restaurants around me and workers were hosing down the sidewalks while shop owners threw buckets of water to do the same job. The few other people having coffee were very obviously heading to work or to school. After finishing my coffee, I headed for Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon). I crossed pont Bonaparte and stopped at “my” boulangerie. This time I chose a chicken, olive, and tomato quiche and a chocolate croissant and ate them sitting at one of their outside tables. Just as good as yesterday.

With my hunger satisfied, I headed for rue St. Jean, Old Lyon’s main street. The only people there were the ones hosing down the streets and driving the sweeping machines. Most of the restaurants still had their outside chairs and tables stacked up and their doors still locked. I wandered around and familiarized myself with the streets, going uphill to the end of rue St. Jean and then cutting over to rue du Boeuf and walking downhill to the end of it. I went into the Cathedrale St. Jean, a much plainer church that the Basilique Notre Dame that I visited yesterday. I found one of the traboules at #27 rue St. Jean that connects to #6 rue de Trois Maries, and I took several photos inside and out. At one time Lyon was home to a huge silk industry and the traboules are indoor passageways connecting parallel streets that were used to transport the silk from one processing place to another in inclement weather without damaging the fabric.

I hung around, exploring streets, sitting in the sun, taking photos, until 11, when the Musees Gadagne opened up and I went into the Musee des Marionettes du Monde. As in the Musee Gallo-Romain yesterday, I didn’t read all the texts, nor did I pay attention to the history and the facts. I only looked at all the puppets in a purely visual way and took photos of those that appealed to me in some way. I did photograph some of the text, but it was for the meaning that triggered some insight into my own life and/or work. I left Vieux Lyon around 12:30 and walked back to my hotel, going through the farmers market by the river on my way and taking photos of that, too. After that, I stopped by “my” sandwich shop – les 3 Brioches – and bought a salmon wrap with lettuce, shredded carrot, and…can’t think of what else and I believe I already collaged the wrapper into one of the works I made this evening ( I’m writing this around 10:30 p.m. on Wednesday evening). I took my lunch back to the hotel so I could plug my iPad in. The need to recharge batteries is running my life this week.

I left the hotel again around 2 and headed for place des Terreaux. This plaza has a very dramatic fountain by Bartholdi, the same sculptor who created the Statue of Liberty. Across from this fountain, the Palais Saint-Pierre houses the Fine Art Museum and its monastery garden. I went into the art museum and up to the desk to buy my ticket. The man at the desk told me that the second floor, with all the paintings, was closed (I think he said the sculpture area was also closed). He was speaking French and I was speaking English. I jokingly askedin my native tongue, if the ticket price was discounted because there was so little to see, thinking he wouldn’t even understand me. I don’t know if he did, but he then told me to just go ahead into the next room and up the stairs without paying! I had no idea where he was sending me, but never look a gift horse in the mouth, so off I went. I ended up on the second floor looking at the paintings. There were other people there, too, and several guards. So, I looked at the paintings – mostly very old stuff, with a small selection from the first half of the 20th century – some famous names, but many names that I had never heard before. I have no idea what that bit with the guy at the admission desk was all about, but I didn’t pay any admission…oh well. As I have done all week, I simply took photos of things that appealed to me or had some meaning to me and some possibility of affecting my own work. I won’t put all of them in this post, just a couple.

After leaving the Fine Art Museum, I found rue Romarin and the Atelier de Soierie – a silk printing workshop. When I walked in, a woman greeted me in French. I ran out of my own French really fast and it became apparent that she spoke no English, so she went into the back and asked a young man to come out. His English was very good and he is an art student who does the silk printing to earn some money. Very friendly and informative, I got some photos of the two of them doing some screen printing. Made me want to tie on an apron, roll up my sleeves, and get to work!!

On my way back to the hotel I found a health food store and went in and picked up a few items: yogurt, apples, figs, wheat biscuits. Very tired, I decided to take this picnic back to my hotel room and call it a day. It was around 6 or 6:30. Early by France standards, but I knew that it was finally time to practice what I am on this trip to preach and do a bit of art making. After my picnic I spent some time reading up on Lyon and checking the map and deciding where I will go tomorrow – and I won’t even bother to head out till 11 a.m.!!! Then I pulled out my art supplies and all the stuff I’ve gathered over the last three days here in Lyon, and I started to play. This is far, far, far from my usual way of working. I mostly used postcards that I bought and things that would be trash if I weren’t making collages – my Gabby coffee cup and the labels from my sandwiches, for example. I have included photos of my hotel room desk turned into art studio and the three collages that I have played with. I’m thinking that none of them are finished and I’ll look at them again tomorrow. But I will include them in this post as is.

Feet, feet, feet today. And circles, circles, circles. I am finding art everywhere I go. I am paying particular attention to composing these photos, and to the idea of “found” art, as it is such an important idea in collage. And, most importantly, I am having fun. Some of it is rather silly, but why can’t art be silly?

Hey, Mom – check out the first photo, it is for you!! And, Diane (my sister), check out the second photo. I can no longer bring these to you from the countries I visit, but I can send you photos!! And Denise, no photo for you in this post, but you got the stairway photos in a previous post from my arrival at the hotel on Monday that made me think of Rome. Is David even aware of this blog? I don’t have his email address. And Justin, hmmm…I’ll be on the lookout for a photo for you – Dad, too. All of you, write to me and let me know how everyone is doing!!!!

It’s 11 p.m. and I am beat. I’m going to indulge in a long soak in my very nice tub and get to sleep early – by midnight, I hope. At home that is very late for me! The timing of eating and sleeping here is still throwing me, but I’m having a grand time anyway. I’ll do the photos for this post tomorrow morning. That will be the middle of the night for you, so the post will still be ready to read by the time you wake up. Bonne nuit!!

Carousel in place des Jacobins: for MOM.

Carousel in place des Jacobins: for MOM.

Snow globes in Vieux Lyon: for my sister DIANE.

Snow globes in Vieux Lyon: for my sister DIANE.

Cathedrale St. Jean in Vieux Lyon.

Cathedrale St. Jean in Vieux Lyon.

The interior of the Cathedrale St. Jean. Obviously, some work is being done - that's a huge, white plastic tarp covering the entire area behind the altar. I have no idea what it looks like - will have to research it at another time.

The interior of the Cathedrale St. Jean. Obviously, some work is being done – that’s a huge, white plastic tarp covering the entire area behind the altar. I have no idea what it looks like – will have to research it at another time.

The opposite end of the Cathedrale St. Jean, the door I came in.

The opposite end of the Cathedrale St. Jean, the door I came in.

Irrefutable proof that I set foot in Lyon!!

Irrefutable proof that I set foot in Lyon!!

Early morning in Vieux Lyon: empty streets at 9:30 a.m.

Early morning in Vieux Lyon: empty streets at 9:30 a.m.

Early morning in the plaza in front of Cathedrale St. Jean - around 10 a.m.

Early morning in the plaza in front of Cathedrale St. Jean – around 10 a.m.

Interesting image to juxtapose with "Cafe de la Cathedrale," no?

Interesting image to juxtapose with “Cafe de la Cathedrale,” no?

Early morning workers in Vieux Lyon. Take a closer look at what's perched atop that phone booth.

Early morning workers in Vieux Lyon. Take a closer look at what’s perched atop that phone booth.

Early Morning in Old Lyon - another view.

Early Morning in Old Lyon – another view.

Window shopping in Old Lyon.

Window shopping in Old Lyon.

More window shopping in Old Lyon.

More window shopping in Old Lyon.

Feet And Circle: Jazzy Patterns.

Feet And Circle: Jazzy Patterns.

Feet & Circle: Grand Lyon & Yellow Leaves.

Feet & Circle: Grand Lyon & Yellow Leaves.

Traboule entryway: #27 rue St. Jean. You press a button to the left of the door to enter, push buttons inside to light up the passageway, and exit onto a parallel street, in this case #6 rue de Trois Maries.

Traboule entryway: #27 rue St. Jean. You press a button to the left of the door to enter, push buttons inside to light up the passageway, and exit onto a parallel street, in this case #6 rue de Trois Maries.

Inside the Traboule: One.

Inside the Traboule: One.

Inside the traboule: Two.

Inside the traboule: Two.

In the center of the traboule, looking up: Three.

In the center of the traboule, looking up: Three.

Inside the traboule, looking further down the passageway: Four.

Inside the traboule, looking further down the passageway: Four.

Inside the traboule: the inside of the door at #6 rue de Trois Maries: Five.

Inside the traboule: the inside of the door at #6 rue de Trois Maries: Five.

Outside the traboule: the entryway door at #6 rue de Trois Maries.

Outside the traboule: the entryway door at #6 rue de Trois Maries.

The Musees Gadagne opened at 11 and I went in to see the Musee des Marionnettes du Monde. And  I didn't even see the woman on the left when I took the photo - how about the "art" on her dress?!

The Musees Gadagne opened at 11 and I went in to see the Musee des Marionnettes du Monde. And I didn’t even see the woman on the left when I took the photo – how about the “art” on her dress?!

Puppet One: I'll show you just a couple of the puppets that caught my attention. I have realized on this trip that I rarely take interest in the figure as subject matter for my art. I paid a lot of attention to it when I was in Rome because I was working with Geney at the time and the figure is one of her main motifs. So, relating to these puppets was an eye opener for me.

Puppet One: I’ll show you just a couple of the puppets that caught my attention. I have realized on this trip that I rarely take interest in the figure as subject matter for my art. I paid a lot of attention to it when I was in Rome because I was working with Geney at the time and the figure is one of her main motifs. So, relating to these puppets was an eye opener for me.

Puppet Two: How do you interpret THIS one?

Puppet Two: How do you interpret THIS one?

Puppet Three: made of wool.

Puppet Three: made of wool.

Puppet Four: The me inside of me.

Puppet Four: The me inside of me.

Puppet Five: Hey, Carl, this one's for you.

Puppet Five: Hey, Carl, this one’s for you.

Puppets Six: elegant.

Puppets Six: elegant.

Puppets Seven: shadow puppets - I love the interplay.

Puppets Seven: shadow puppets – I love the interplay.

The restaurant terrace and garden at the top of the Musees Gadagne.

The restaurant terrace and garden at the top of the Musees Gadagne.

This explains the next photo, which I found beautiful as well as interesting, so I've included it.

This explains the next photo, which I found beautiful as well as interesting, so I’ve included it.

What do you think?

What do you think?

When I left the puppet museum around 12-12:30, the streets were beginning to fill up with more people.

When I left the puppet museum around 12-12:30, the streets were beginning to fill up with more people.

As it began to bustle, I said goodbye to Vieux Lyon and headed back to my hotel to plug in and recharge.

As it began to bustle, I said goodbye to Vieux Lyon and headed back to my hotel to plug in and recharge.

hmmm...shadow puppet?

hmmm…shadow puppet?

Farmers Market One.

Farmers Market One.

Farmers Market Two: Spiderman waits patiently for service.

Farmers Market Two: Spiderman waits patiently for service.

Farmers Market Three.

Farmers Market Three.

Back in my hotel room, thinking about Matisse's windows.

Back in my hotel room, thinking about Matisse’s windows.

Place des Terreaux, looking out from the doorway of the Musee des Beaux-Arts de Lyon.

Place des Terreaux, looking out from the doorway of the Musee des Beaux-Arts de Lyon.

Fountain by Bartholdi.

Fountain by Bartholdi.

Hotel de Ville. When I am facing the fountain, this is on my right, far across place des Terreaux.

Hotel de Ville. When I am facing the fountain, this is on my right, far across place des Terreaux.

Musee des Beaux-Arts de Lyon, directly across from the Bartholdi fountain.

Musee des Beaux-Arts de Lyon, directly across from the Bartholdi fountain.

Entryway to the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Entryway to the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Garden, entering the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Garden, entering the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

This one appealed to me - by Vuillard.

This one appealed to me – by Vuillard.

Not sure why this figure appealed to me - maybe it was the effect of seeing the puppets earlier in the day.

Not sure why this figure appealed to me – maybe it was the effect of seeing the puppets earlier in the day.

Dubuffet. This is a painting, but what if it were collage? The idea for the Nice Workshop of doing small works on the go then putting them all together onto one large canvas when back at the studio?

Dubuffet. This is a painting, but what if it were collage? The idea for the Nice Workshop of doing small works on the go then putting them all together onto one large canvas when back at the studio?

Interior shot of the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Interior shot of the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Interior shot of the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Interior shot of the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Interior of the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Interior of the Musee des Beaux-Arts.

Foot and Squares In the Musee des Beaux-Arts de Lyon.

Foot and Squares In the Musee des Beaux-Arts de Lyon.

Feet and Squares On the Diagonal (Diamonds?). Which composition do you prefer?

Feet and Squares On the Diagonal (Diamonds?). Which composition do you prefer?

Rue Romarin on the way to L'Atelier de Soierie: the silk workshop.

Rue Romarin on the way to L’Atelier de Soierie: the silk workshop.

Silk printing workshop. (Hey, note the squares and diamonds!)

Silk printing workshop. (Hey, note the squares and diamonds!)

Silk screening scarves.

Silk screening scarves.

Front of the silk workshop.

Front of the silk workshop.

Back of the silk workshop.

Back of the silk workshop.

Pots of color for painting the silk. They not only do silkscreening, they also do stamping and freehand painting.

Pots of color for painting the silk. They not only do silkscreening, they also do stamping and freehand painting.

We are finally reaching the end of this very long and very full day. Late into the night my hotel desk becomes my studio.

We are finally reaching the end of this very long and very full day. Late into the night my hotel desk becomes my studio.

Here they are. I lost track of the time. Are they finished? Art they any good? Is it art? No matter. The important thing is that I practiced what I am preaching - just do it and concern yourself with the outcome later, if ever.

Here they are. I lost track of the time. Are they finished? Art they any good? Is it art? No matter. The important thing is that I practiced what I am preaching – just do it and concern yourself with the outcome later, if ever.

ghetta hirsch
September 8th, 2013 at 7:45 pm

Debi,
C’est merveilleux de lire tout sur la France. Vous avez le regard d’une artiste et j’aime lire vos blogs. How do you manage in French?
Thank you for the blogs!
Ghetta Hirsch

September 10th, 2013 at 3:54 am

Hi Ghetta, my French studies and my lessons with you made a big difference – not that I’m chattering away like a native. I find that I understand quite a lot more than I am able to speak, but many people here, both French and English speaking, have assured me that that is how it goes for many people. I did have one very simple conversation all in French during one of my bus rides with a young woman who only spoke a tiny bit of English, so we relied on French. She was easy going and fun and that helped a lot. Lots of laughing at my funny simple sentences!! Thanks for your comment, Ghetta, and I’m pleased to know you are following the blog. -Debi

Laura
September 6th, 2013 at 11:23 am

What an amazing job you’re doing describing your experiences! Reading you blog is now something I look froward to daily. In the last few posts I especially like they way you describe not just “what” your looking at, but “how” you’re looking at it.

I think I may actually be a blog behind. Now I have to decide if I read it now or wait and savour it later!

gretchen
September 5th, 2013 at 2:28 pm

Bon jour Debi,
LOVE the Vuillard – look at those colors!!! The composition is pretty spectacular too.
I find your pieces really interesting. Especially that the center one goes outside of its space (rectangle) and the other two float within.
Be well and keep finding the boulangerie.

Gretchen

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Debi Pendell Artist by debipendell.com