Oct. 12, Saturday: Castle Hill again, Cemetery, Old City, Garibaldi Place, Square Head, Atelier 5.
The next part of my plan was to go to the Musee Des Beaux Arts. But first I wanted to make a brief stop at the TI and ask for a map of Castle Hill. I had been reading that there were several things there that I hadn’t seen the day I went up and up and up and met Greg & Rochelle. But, nope, no map available. The weather was gorgeous by then. The morning had been cool enough to require a sweater, even though it was sunny with clear skies. Now,at 1:00, it had warmed up, but there was still a mild, cool breeze and the skies were still clear blue and brightly sunny. I decided to walk down the Promenade Des Anglais to Castle Hill and just find out where the elevator is, then I would walk back the other way down the Promenade to the Beaux Arts Museum, that way being outside for awhile before being inside for awhile. By the way, the entire bit is called the Promenade Des Anglais: the boardwalk near the beach, the six lanes of traffic, and the sidewalk on the other side of the traffic.
Instead of following this plan, I got distracted. I found the elevator, but then I was curious to keep walking. The Promenade Des Anglais turns into the Quai Etats Unis and then into the Quai Rauba Capeu. I had read that there were other stairs up the hill on the opposite side from where I had climbed up last time, and I wanted to see where they were – and more and more I simply wanted to stay outside on this oh-so-gorgeous day. I kept walking and found the other way up, but not without a fair amount of confusion – there is very little signage and many different possible paths and stairways headed in many different directions. I met numerous people along the way and, if I could hear that they spoke English, I asked them if they knew how to get to the waterfall that I had read about. None of them knew, they were looking for it, too. I saw lots of new and interesting sights along my new route, but I did not take any photos – I kept my promise to myself – I needed a day off. That is, until I got to the very top, which I hadn’t reached last time. The view…how many times have I posted photos of views in this blog?…ah, but this one was SURELY the BEST of all! I couldn’t resist. Out came my iPad and click…click…click. After that I couldn’t stop for the rest of the day. I took 112 photos. I think I need photographers anonymous. Or bloggers anonymous. Or both. I’m going to try to choose only 20 out of that 112 to post here – wish me luck.
I wandered around Castle Hill for about 2 hours, going again to some of the places I had already been and exploring new places I hadn’t been before. I found the waterfall – not at all impressive, so I won’t even include a photo. I saw lots more mosaics and took way too many photos of them, so I will only select a few to include. I found the cemetery and it took me awhile to find out how to get in, but I did and I include two photos – only they alone don’t really give you the picture of this cemetery – I found it difficult to capture. There were lots more people all over Castle Hill today than there were the last time I went, probably because it’s Saturday. The playground was full of kids and the cafe was bustling. I now know my way around Castle Hill much better and feel more confident about leading my group there.
I headed down some stairs, wanting to go back and continue walking Quai Rauba Capeu. But, once again, I got distracted and ended up going down, down, down, multiple twisty, winding staircases until I was sure I was lost. But I kept on walking and soon saw that I had ended up on a street in the old city that I had been on before. I hadn’t taken any photos the last time, so I took some today. Following this street I came out on Place Garibaldi, and I’ve put a photo here, even though I’ve shown this place to you before. Last time I did not find Tete Carree, so I decided to do that this time – the photo caption explains.
I was truly exhausted by then and wanted to get back to my apartment. I consulted my map and found a route which took me down several streets I hadn’t walked before, including rue Defly. On this street, at #5 …serendipity! Here was a wonderful, tiny gallery, with interesting work by current artists! I have been trying to locate galleries like this one, but have not been able to. I plan to go back to this neighborhood and see if there are any more there – galleries usually tend to cluster together. But today I was too tired to try.
When I got back “home” I poured myself a glass of wine and prepared myself a plate of cheese and bread. To top it off I consumed the best apple tart that I’ve had since my arrival in France. I had stopped at a boulangerie on my way back and bought myself that little treat. Then I began hand writing this blog post, choosing photos (it took two go-arounds, but I got it down to only 20! Simplifying is difficult!), and hand writing captions. It’s 8:30 on Saturday night now and I am just finishing up this hand written draft. Starbucks and Nicetoile are closed on Sundays, so it looks like I’m going to La Lorraine for breakfast and blogging tomorrow morning. No more work of any sort tonight, I’m just going to read and go to bed early. I’m really, really tired…but happy.

One of the views from the very top of castle Hill that drove me irresistably to pull out my iPad and indulge in my new found addiction – even when I promised myself I wouldn’t, the mark of a true addiction, no doubt.

The abstraction created by the closeup interests me. Also, that bit of blue, an accidental occurrence on just this one step.

One of 5 similar but different mosaics set into a long, curved wall: Castle Hill. The use of various types of stone is surprising – wait till you see them in person – those of you who are attending the Nice workshop, that is.

There is an intriguing cemetery – terraced and crowded and with elaborate “headstones” (some look like telephone booths or old elevators) – on Castle Hill, and this wall surrounds it. There are about 18-20 of these arches with a different mosaic in each one, all birds. I only took photos of about three quarters of them, and I am only showing you this one.

At about the middle of all the arches with bird mosaics is a fountain with a devil mosaic with water pouring from his mouth – here is a closeup. Kinda cute, ain’t he? Rather curious, I’d say.

At this point in my wanderings I was sure I was lost. This is at the bottom of a very, very long stairway with lots of twists and turns and the feeling that I was trespassing in someone’s backyard. Rather disconcerting.

At first I walked through the section of the old city where most of the butcher shops are. What are YOU having for dinner?

A shop in the old city selling spices. I took lots more photos of the old city, but will just include these 3 here for now.

Coming out of the old city, I found myself at Place Garibaldi, where I had been on a previous day. Many more people here on a Saturday.

Unlike the last time I visited Place Garibaldi, this time I walked further in order to see this: Tete Carree (remember, there are accent marks on French words that I don’t easily access on my keyboard, and there are a couple here), which means Square Head. It is a building, a library, and sits in a small park, that you can only see a part of here.

At Atelier 5, #5 rue Defly, a painting by Valerie Altounian which appealed to me. She also had 2 more paintings in the gallery.
I have admired Cecile Perra’s work for awhile now. She’s on Facebook and always posting interesting work. How great you saw it for real! Enjoying your blog so much Debi! Merci
Diane
Hi Debi from New Orleans- what a great city!
Have just caught up with your blog after 4 days, when I really missed your account of your adventures. You are brilliant! Looking forward to seeing you in less than a week. Don’t forget to check out the soca, maybe in the Cours Saleya cafes.
Most definitely the best view yet! So glad you broke the rules and shared it with us. The color of the sky is just magnificent – no wonder you wanted to stay out and play. Perhaps you are just a wandering poet in pursuit of visual delights and composition – no need to control that impulse…
Wonderful photos. The view from Castle Hill looks like some of the professional photos used for advertising. Great shot.
Thanks for the wonderful collage shots.
See you soon.
Marie