Final Week in France
Now I want to write about our last week in France. In the last blog post I described how I stayed home on Saturday, October 26, to nurse my cold and to rest up for more travels. While I was doing that, Carl and Gerry went off to the Nice airport to get our rental car. Everyone was packed up and ready to go by Saturday night, as we had to leave the villa by 9:30 a.m. on Sunday morning. Several people needed to leave earlier than that to catch flights. It was a lovely, relaxed, farewell evening. We would all miss the villa and each other. The group had gotten along so very well – it was amazing. I am grateful to each and every one for making that week so fantastic.
Sunday morning at 9:30 a.m. Gerry, Karen, Carl, and I headed down the road in a very classy, very comfy, rented BMW. With Gerry driving we were off to Aix-en-Provence. We only had a skeleton of a plan, which we agreed was flexible. We would make decisions about where and when as we went along. Arriving in Aix, we checked into the Hotel le Manoir, which we had found in a Rick Steves guidebook. We loved it, take a look at the photos. We did a little unpacking and settling in, then set off for a lovely lunch (see photos, and note the one that continues my “up and up and up” theme), then we walked and walked and walked all over town. At around 5:30 we went back to the hotel to take a bit of a nap, agreeing to meet at 6:30 for a glass of wine then go off to dinner someplace. Well, that was not to be. My cold had worsened and I simply couldn’t get up from that nap. I told them to go on without me, so Carl joined Karen and Gerry for a glass of wine, but then they all agreed that they were too tired to go out and no one went to dinner. Karen felt that she was catching the cold and Carl thought maybe he was relapsing, and they both turned out to be right. So Sunday night we slept. For me, it was a turning point and my cold got better rapidly. Karen’s developed, as did Carl’s, but we all just took some cold remedies and kept on going.
On Monday morning, breakfast at the hotel was traditional, croissants, bread, butter, jam, and coffee, with just a little bit of cereal and some orange juice. Needing something with more protein, we took a walk around Aix and found a boulangerie and bought quiches. Then we hopped in the car and headed for Cezanne’s last studio. I find now that I didn’t take any photos – none were allowed inside, and I didn’t think to take any outside the house – sorry for that. Cezanne’s studio has been left just as it was when he died. He had the place built to his specifications and it is a fairly large space with high ceilings and an expanse of windows on the north side and a few smaller window on the south side. Many of his props are still there – the pottery and glass and fabrics that he used in his still lifes – along with his easels and brushes and paintboxes and such. I experienced an impact that I find difficult to describe. Seeing the objects in actuality that I have for years looked at only in paintings (or reproductions of paintings) somehow made it possible for me to feel the artist painting them. I guess I could imagine setting them up and studying them and painting them myself. As a result, I thought harder and more sharply about the choices Cezanne made when he used these objects as a springboard to explore his ideas about painting. Since I didn’t do any research and planning for this part of the trip, I hadn’t realized that Cezanne grew up in and spent most of his life in Aix-en-Provence and there were many sites there pertaining to him, including his childhood home. There is also an art museum there that we didn’t go into. This town deserves a return visit, there is so much that we didn’t see.
Leaving Cezanne’s last studio, we drove to Arles, where we checked into the Hotel du Musee, another Rick Steves suggestion. We loved this little hotel, too, check out the photos. We stayed two nights. Once we were checked in and settled that Monday afternoon, we hurried across town to find a sandwich shop that the concierge told us about – we were looking for a fast lunch. As I say in the photo caption, it is almost impossible to have a fast meal in France. The sandwich shop was closed, so we found a cafe, sat outside, and gave in to a slower paced lunch, although we did skip the wine. We wanted to get going and see everything! After lunch, we walked along the Rhone River (see photos) to the Museum of Ancient History. Arles is loaded with Roman ruins. This museum explained the history of the town and the uses and meanings of the various Roman remains. No photos in this post of this museum as none were allowed. When we left, we walked back to the main part of the old city via little streets and alley ways in residential neighborhoods. Then we explored the old city, going into a couple of churches and just generally wandering and people watching. Back at our hotel at about 6, we shared a bottle of wine in one of our hotels lovely outdoor courtyards, then went to dinner at a little restaurant just around the corner. We sat outside on their terrace, even though the evening turned a little cold. As always, good wine and good food. And we met another American couple, who happen to live not far from Karen and Gerry!! Small world may be a cliche, but it seems to have quite a lot of truth to it.
Tuesday morning we drove first to Uzes, then went to Pont du Gard, and then spent the late afternoon and evening in Nimes. Built in the 1st century AD, Pont du Gard is a Roman aqueduct bridge over the Gardon River that was part of the aqueduct that brought water from Uzes to Nimes. It is the highest and best preserved Roman aqueduct bridge. Uzes is a charming small town that has tourist aspects, but has not as yet been completely taken over by tourism. Being off season and early in the morning, the town was quiet and many things were closed, but I would like to go back and spend more time here. Pont du Gard was awesome, and the museum was very informative and helped me appreciate what I was seeing. We arrived in Nimes too late to go into any of the historic sites, but we saw the Roman Amphitheater and the Maison Carree (a Roman temple) from the outside. I took photos in all three places and will post some of them here. We had dinner in Nimes, good enough but not great, then we drove back to Arles to stay one more night at the Hotel du Musee. Again, we just got a quick overview of Uzes and Nimes and both deserve another longer visit.
Up until Wednesday the weather had been a little bit cooler than Nice, but still comfortable and sunny. But Wednesday morning, waking up in our hotel room, we could hear a fiece wind slamming the shutters around. Venturing out to see the Roman Amphitheater, the Roman Theater, and the Roman Baths, we were blasted with cold, strong winds. Someone told me that it was a combination of the mistral and mountain winds. I’m not really sure what that meant, but when we walked into the wind to bring our luggage to the car we could barely move against it! But it was our last morning in Arles and we were determined to see these sites, so off we went, freezing all the way. We still enjoyed it and I’m glad we didn’t miss any of it. See the photos.
Wednesday afternoon we drove from Arles to Vallauris (back in the Cotes d’Azur and some warmer temperatures, and no wind), a trip of about 3 hours, stopping at a highway rest stop to buy sandwiches and salad from Paul, a restaurant chain throughout France that we have enjoyed on previous trips. There are no hotels right in Vallauris itself, but there are some near the beach in Golfe Juan, which is part of Vallauris. It is an interesting set up, seen rather frequently along the Mediterranean coast: the town, then the railroad tracks, then the buildings on the coastline, then the ocean. This part of the coastline was all boat docks, no beach. Our hotel was on one side of the tracks, the boat docks and restaurants on the other side,and we got from one to the other via an underground tunnel under the railroad tracks. We stayed at the Hotel de la Mer, nothing special, but clean and comfortable with a good breakfast. I wish I had gotten a photo, but I didn’t – the hotel next door was called the Hotel California!! With Gerry and Carl both being musicians, we spent our week together with a song for everything that happened and we had used that song several times already – we couldn’t believe our eyes when we saw it. After we checked in we had a glass of wine on the balcony of Gerry and Karen’s room, looking out over the buildings and train tracks at a small strip of the Mediterranean in the distance – our “room with a view.” But the weather was warm here and we enjoyed our last bit of “summer.” Around 7 we headed off to find a restaurant, following our concierge’s directions to the port, as I said, through the tunnel under the tracks. Many of the restaurants had closed for the season, and we walked around looking at the boats and checking restaurant menus, and we were very lucky. We found a fantastic place. It is the best meal I had that entire trip, I think. And it was more than the food and the wine, although both of those were top notch. It was also the atmosphere and the service, and, of course, the company. A night I will remember.
Thursday morning we returned to Vallauris and went to the 3 museums – all very small and all together – Musee de la Ceramique, Musee Magnelli, and Musee National Picasso. Then we had lunch – our second best meal of the trip! It was at Cafe Llorca, very near the museums. We sat outside and it was sunny and warm. Right now in North Adams it is definitely November, chilly and dark, and I am remembering this meal with such longing! Ah well, summer will come again. Or I will go and find it! After lunch we explored the town some more, going in and out of shops. Vallauris’ claim to fame is that Picasso lived there from 1948 to 1955 and produced something like 2,000 works in ceramics. Historically, Vallauris had been a place where utilitarian ceramic cookware had been made. When other materials began to be used for cookware, the industry died out. When Picasso arrived, he revived Vallauris’ reputation and the town is still counting on this connection to this most famous of artists. There are many galleries and artists there, but my visit was too short to really understand what the situation is there now. Some of it seemed very commercial and touristy, but there also seems to be some real art going on. Being there off season, I didn’t really get a full picture. In some ways Vallauris reminded me of North Adams – working artists creating quality artwork and some major museums and good galleries, but if you came here in March instead of August, what would you see? And how do you sort out the inevitable tourist stuff from the genuine stuff? I feel that I am not explaining this well. I liked Vallauris, as I like North Adams, but there is something about both places that feels as if it is still trying to be born, trying to develop, trying to form. I would like to go back and spend more time in Vallauris – see what its like during the summer and talk to more people who live there. A friend of mine is working at an artist residency program there next summer, so perhaps she will be able to get to know the place. Diane, be sure to go to both Le Bistro du Port and Cafe Llorca!! A town with those two restaurants definitely is doing something right!
On Thursday afternoon we drove from Vallauris to Nice and along the way took the photos of the Mediterranean that I put at the end of this post. The rest I told you at the beginning of this very long essay about my final week in France. It is now Wednesday evening, November 6, at 6 p.m. and I am just finishing this post. Of course I haven’t been working on it steadily since yesterday morning. I stopped and did other things and then went back to work on it. But it still feels like it took me two days to write it. Never again will I attempt to do a blog post about an entire week!! It’s probably even too long to read in one sitting, but, oh well, here it is. I don’t know now if I will write in this blog anymore – not sure what it might be about if I did. Time will tell. Thank you to all of you who have been reading – you have kept me very good company on my adventure. And a special thank you to all of you who sent me comments!
Hotel le Manoir, Aix-en-Provence. Our first stop on our whirlwind tour of Provence that began the day after the Workshop in Nice ended. We arrived here around lunch time and found this lovely hotel. It is set back from the street by this courtyard and a wall around it, so was very quiet. I recommend this place if you are ever in Aix.
Hotel le Manoir. Checking out the breakfast room just off the lobby: Karen, Gerry, and Carl.
Hotel le Manoir: an outside dining courtyard. I think this used to be a monastery. I have to admit that the final week is difficult to remember all at once. It’s best to do blog posts day by day, otherwise everything starts to run together and overlap and get confused. At best my facts are always rather shaky, as I’ve mentioned before, but at worst they are downright faulty. Here are Karen and Gerry checking out the history photos while I was busy taking photos. I’ll check my info with them!
A glimpse of our very comfortable room – and of Carl, who looks very pleased.
Aix-en-Provence: we had an excellent lunch at Salle A Manger, sitting outside on a small street just around the corner from our hotel, in the warm sunshine.
Don’t forget me! I was there, too! Got to get myself into a few of these photos, yes?
This gives to meaning to “ascending to the throne.” I expected to hear an orchestra play a processional as I climbed the stairs. Remember my blog theme of up and up and up and up? We all laughed when we saw les toillettes at Salle A Manger. Just had to share it with you.
Aix-en-Provence: shot walking down the street. You can see that the weather was still warm on Sunday.
Aix-en-Provence: another street shot.
Gerry and Karen on Laroque Road in Aix-en-Provence. For those who don’t know, their last name is Larocque.
Street scene in Aix-en-Provence. Oh, how I miss those outdoor cafes!!!
The four of us in front of the dolphin fountain in Aix-en-Provence. The stranger who offered to take this photo kept hitting video by mistake, so I have several wonderful seconds-long videos of this pose, but only one lousy photo – not Karen’s best, I’m afraid.
Aix-en-Provence. We actually saw quite a lot of the city before we all collapsed for the night.
One final shot of Aix-en-Provence from our Monday morning hunt for a boulangerie and some quiches. After that we drove to Cezanne’s last studio of which I, unfortunately, have no photos. Then it was off to Arles, which is where the next photo was taken.
Arles: the Rhone River. We parked the car very near our hotel and right next to the river, so this was our first sight in Arles.
Arles: the Rhone River looking in the other direction. There is a walkway along the river that we took to get to the Museum of Ancient History, which was excellent (but did not allow photography).
Arles, the street our hotel was on, Hotel du Musee.
Arles, Hotel du Musee. This photo is a bit too dark, but I like how it shows you the door leading into the outside courtyard from the lobby, and the courtyard staircase that leads to our rooms.
Arles: Hotel du Musee: I think there were two courtyards. Will have to check that with my traveling companions. Here is a lovely one, open to the sky above.
Yes, there ARE two courtyards – here is the other one. Arles: Hotel du Musee. The four of us enjoyed a bottle of wine here on Monday evening before going out to dinner. We loved this hotel and recommend it to you for the next time you are in Arles.
Arles: Hotel du Musee: sitting room off the lobby.
A glimpse of our room at the Hotel du Musee and Carl, once again, looking rather pleased.
Oh, sorry Carl, but this is the only photo I have from our lunch in Arles on Monday! We were anxious to get going to see the sights, so we wanted just a quick sandwich. The hotel concierge told us of a sandwich shop, so we hot-footed it across town only to find that it was closed. Many things are closed in France on Sunday and Monday, we found. And a fast lunch is almost nonexistent, or any fast meal, for that matter. We ended up sitting in this outdoor cafe having salads (Karen and I) and croques madames (Carl and Gerry) and just going with the slow flow.
Street scene in Arles.
“Found Art” in Arles.
More “Found Art” in Arles. Why is it that the peeling paint at MY house never looks like art to me?
The Old Hospital of Arles, in which VanGogh spent some time. He painted this garden.
Oh! All of a sudden we are in Uzes, in the lot where we parked the car. There seems to be quite a gap between the last photo and this one, what happened? I can only guess that I must have gotten tired. We did more walking around in Arles on Monday evening, and we had a lovely dinner on the outdoor terrace of a delightful restaurant around the corner from Hotel du Musee. But, alas, no photos. So, on to Uzes, which we drove to on Tuesday morning, after an excellent breakfast at our hotel: croissants, chocolate croissants, bread/butter/jam, hard-boiled eggs, cheese, fruit, yogurt, cereal, juice, coffee – one of the best breakfasts we had.
Statue in Uzes, all dressed-up. But, is it art? You can see that the day was overcast, it had also turned rather cold and as we looked around the town we kept our eyes open for a jacket or coat for me, but no luck. Which was fine, since by the time we returned to Nice on Thursday it was warm and sunny. We encountered quite a variety of weather on our last week in France.
Scene in Uzes.
A similar yet different scene in Uzes. We just wandered the town for a few hours in the morning. I can’t name these place that I took photos of. All the towns we visited during our last week deserve another visit – all we did was get a glimpse.
Cafe in Uzes…one day when I return I will sit here with glass of wine and simply slow down and relax. Hmmm…I wonder if I will learn to by then!
Scene in Uzes.
The shops in Uzes were really interesting and the clothes were unique and artsy. Perhaps next time I will return with an empty suitcase?
Pale blue door in Uzes.
More blue along a street in Uzes.
One last shot of Uzes before we drive on to the Pont du Gard. Before we left we stopped at a cafe and got sandwiches for lunch – one of our quickest meals. We wanted to also get to Nimes that same day, so we had lots to do – so American: quick quick quick!!
My first view of the Pont du Gard – so huge, so amazing, so OLD!
I took many shots of this, trying to capture it. There is a museum nearby that explains the hows and whys of the building and working of this aqueduct and that enhanced my appreciation for what I was seeing. It’s too long for explaining in this blog post, but if you ever get to the Pont du Gard, do do some research and I think you will find it all the more fascinating. We just don’t have anything that is truly OLD in our oh-so-young country.
The chute at the very top of the aqueduct bridge where the water traveled through.
The same chute showing the gate in front of it which prevents people from walking there. I rather liked the whole abstract thing going on in this photo. What do you think?
One last view of the Pont du Gard, then we are off to Nimes.
Street scene in Nimes. We got there just as it was turning dark. We only got a mere glimpse of this rather large city, so we need to go back sometime.
We were too late to enter the Roman Amphitheater, so we only saw it from the outside.
Another view of the exterior of the Roman Amphitheater in Nimes.
Street scene at dusk in Nimes.
Maison Carree, a Roman temple in Nimes.
Evening shopping in Nimes. I didn’t take too many photos in Nimes – guess I was tired and hungry by then. We found a restaurant and had a good dinner, not great but good enough, and then drove back to Arles where we spent a second night at the Hotel du Musee. The next photos are in Arles on Wednesday morning.
On Wednesday morning in Arles the winds were fierce and the temperatures were chilling, but we were determined to see the Roman ruins before driving on to Vallauris. This is the Roman Amphitheater, which is still in use today for bull fights plays, and concerts.
Inside the Roman Amphitheater.
A portion of the hallway around the amphitheater.
Seats in the amphitheater. Bring a cushion!!!
“Found Art One” in the amphitheater.
“Found Art Two” in the amphitheater.
“Found Art Three” in the amphitheater.
“Found Art Four” someplace in the streets between the Roman Amphitheater and the Ancient Roman Theater.
“Found Art Five” somewhere in the streets of Arles.
Approaching the Ancient Roman Theater in Arles, which is still used today for performances.
Inside the Ancient Roman Theater.
Gerry gave a stellar performance. Take your bow, Gerry!!
And the crowd really went wild for Karen’s performance! Encore, encore!!
After the Ancient Theater we took a quick look at what is left of the Roman Baths in Arles, Thermes de Constantin.
Here’s Carl looking for the heated pool. We were freezing in the fierce wind! Enough of Arles for now, we shall return in more comfortable weather one day. Now off to Vallauris, which is back in the Cotes d’Azur (the French Riviera).
Our first look at Vallauris, walking up from the parking lot on the edge of town.
Know this guy? I didn’t. If you are an old movie buff you will probably recognize him. He was a famous actor and he also painted and worked in ceramics. This is a museum in his honor in Vallauris.
One of Marais’ ceramic pieces.
Another work by Marais, just to give you an idea of what he did.
Vallauris is full of galleries. Being off season, most of them were closed when we were there.
Walking up the main street in Vallauris. I’m presenting these photos to you in the order that I took them, so am showing you how Vallauris unfolded for me. I knew little about it when I arrived, and visited this town because a friend of mine will be working at an artist residency there next summer. We explored it a little on Wednesday evening, then again on Thursday morning.
Karen peeking in the window of a gallery in Vallauris. Some of the galleries were slick, commercial, touristy. Others presented solid, interesting, quality work by artists who live and work in or near Vallauris. Definitely a mixed bag.
Another view of Vallauris’ main street.
This white building with green shutters is the building for A.I.R. Vallauris, the artist residency program. It was closed both days that I was there.
There’s a gallery on the ground floor. Not sure if this is part of A.I.R. or not.
But here is a side window – definitely A.I.R. and some interesting work.
And a side door with a sign that says A.I.R. Vallauris. Too bad no one was there so that I could ask some questions – that is the downside of traveling off season.
And this is the view in front of the A.I.R. building. Quiet now, but I’ll bet it’s bustling in the summer season.
This is Wednesday night at Golfe Juan, which is part of Vallauris. To the left are the docks, filled with boats. There are no hotels in Vallauris, only in Golfe Juan, and we booked a room for one night at the Hotel de la Mer. It was clean and comfortable, but with no particular character. The four of us enjoyed a glass of wine on the balcony of one of our rooms, looking out at the Mediterranean – behind many buildings and the train tracks. To get to the street in this photo we walked about 20 minutes and then passed under the railroad tracks via a tunnel.
In this photo I think you can make out the boats docked on the left.
Many of the restaurants were closed for the season, but then we spotted this one.
Doesn’t that look inviting? It called to us. And that turned out to be our table!
Le Bistro du Port. We had the best dinner of the whole trip in this restaurant, and the finest wine. Actually, the whole experience was superior – the waiter, the atmosphere, the food, everything. They showed us the fish, fresh caught, and we chose what we wanted. They simply grilled it and served it with fennel, potatoes, and green beans with garlic – all cooked so expertly.
We were all as satisfied and happy as Gerry looks here!! The desserts, which I can’t remember the names of, were all exquisite (we shared) and we enjoyed a complimentary after dinner liquor, something I don’t usually like, but I enjoyed this one – don’t know the name of that either. Oh well, me and facts, like oil and water.
On Thursday morning we explored Vallauris some more. This is a sculpture by Picasso. Vallauris’ claim to fame is that Picasso lived there from 1948 to 1955 and produced something like 2,000 ceramic works there. There is a Ceramic Museum with several of these works which we visited.
The courtyard of the Musee de la Ceramique, Musee Magnelli, and Musee National Picasso (which is one work by Picasso called “War and Peace” done on the walls of a small chapel). They didn’t allow photos inside, so this is all I can show you.
I didn’t take very many photos on Thursday. After the museums we had lunch, then we poked around in the shops that were open, then we headed back to Nice where Carl and I would stay at the Park Inn in preparation to fly home on Friday morning. The Park Inn was clean and comfortable but with no personality, so no photos.
We did have another great meal in Vallauris, at Cafe Llorca. I had a very memorable chicken and artichoke risotto, along with some excellent house wine. And the desserts were to die for, although I only had one bite of everyone’s. We had our two best meals in Vallauris and I hightly recommend both restaurants.
When we saw this on our drive from Vallauris to Nice, knowing we were returning to North Adams, we couldn’t resist stopping to take a few photos of the beautiful Mediterranean Sea.
I do miss it.
I will be back.
Lovely pix and seems like it was a fine way to wind down your whole trip although obviously not leisurely! See you soon.